Summer Running - Desert Edition

As I’m moving over the hot sand and dirt paths I’m blasted with a breeze that brings pre-heating oven temperatures across my face. Of course the temperature is only about 109F, but it certainly feels like the inside of an oven with the sun shining brightly adding an extra dash of singe to my run. The insides of my lips that cover my gums are the only part of my body that isn’t cooking. The reason for that is the wonderful and amazing hydrologic phenomenon of evaporative cooling. As I exhale through my mouth and nose the water vapor is instantly evaporated in the arid environment and because of the high latent heat of evaporation of water the air around it cools comparatively to the scorching desert heat. This is the same principle that cools your skin when you sweat. It creates a micro-climate around my mouth and it is through this small natural cooling process that I can channel my thoughts to a comfortable place to keep cool on my run. It’s amazing how refreshing a tiny bit of cool air can feel on what the National Weather Service calls an “Excessive Heat Warning” day. It felt similar to that nice refreshing feeling that you get when you drink a cold beverage on a hot day and your mouth is all dry. You can feel the cool liquid just splashing its way down your esophagus and feel the comfortable chilled fluids reaching your stomach. Just imagine that but instead you are supplying that refreshing feeling on your gums and that feeling is repeated constantly with each breath you take. Extreme weather calls for extreme methods.

Of course, there are other issues to consider while running in this heat. For example, spontaneous combustion is a serious concern. I saw about a dozen birds that were randomly ripped to pieces along my route. Now there could be a few possibly reasons for this. 1) There is a series of electric poles along the route and perhaps an electric surge passed through and vaporized the poor birds. 2) Perhaps a Dust Devil whirled its way on this path and with the column of sand and rocks gained enough momentum to rip the birds into shreds. 3) Lastly, it could be that the birds simply had heat exhaustion and fell from the sky traveling at terminal velocity and rupturing on impact. But ultimately, I think the likely reason is that the molecules inside the birds’ bodies simply said “Okay, this is it. It’s too damn hot. Let’s blow this joint!” and just like that they exploded.

Another smart strategy to keep cool on a run is to continuously douse water on your wrists and neck. It seems the nerves in those areas are somehow susceptible to regulating body temperature. I remember watching a documentary when I was younger on kangaroos and the way they are able to stay cool in the hot Australian Outback. They just lick their forearms and let the evaporation cool off their arms. Employing this strategy works well for humans too. But instead of saliva I chose water from my water bottle to do the trick. In this heat I’ll splash my wrists and neck every few minutes and let science keep me cool. It’s only 3 miles today and I’m thankful for that. Once I get home I immediately jump into a cold shower. Once I get out I continue to sweat for another 30 minutes until my body returns to normal temperature. 

As you can imagine, running in the desert is hard. Especially if it’s in the middle of the day. That’s something I have to remind myself when I hit the snooze button at 4:30 AM and choose to sleep in during the coolest part of the day (usually mid 80s) thereby forcing me to run in the inferno of the afternoon heat. I’ll try to remember that and if I don’t, I’ll keep these hot weather tips in mind. I’ll also keep my fingers crossed that my molecules don’t decide to go boom.

Patience

The sun and its benevolent rays of photons shine radiantly on the rocks and sand. Fortunately, the heat is not intense this early in the year. For now it is warm and rather comforting. The day is coming to an end and yet I have just begun my ascent up Telegraph Pass. The twilight hours linger with the open landscape as daylight begins to diminish across the open desert. I come to this trail once a week and it is my dose of “real” trail running that keeps me sated. I haven't done near as much trail running as I'd like this year but I know that it's still early and I will be bagging peaks and bombing trails soon enough. I have to let my body adjust to the desert climate and practice a very crucial skill that all ultra runners must hone, patience.

Patience is what can make anyone a great trail runner. I am fortunate enough to possess some talent with patience that has also worked well in my non-running life. On the trails it is clear that patience is necessary if you want to trail run with longevity and more importantly, injury-free. I may not be winning races but I have an innate ability to keep moving along slow, steady and consistently. This patience has been tested in a new way out here in the desert. I have been dealing with learning to wait until my body acclimates to the weather out here before I can get back to my level of running I am used to. It seems that my body has grown accustomed to taking some down time in the winter and not pushing my limits too much. Around this time of the year I would normally be running in snow and ice with strong winds blasting at my face. I would be content with just having made it out the door and braved the elements for 30- 45 minutes or even a full hour.  But the scene down here in the desert country is different this time of the year. Right now is the prime time to do your running out here. Cool mornings and sunny afternoons make it perfect conditions for runners to run their hearts out. Oh, and also no snow makes it pleasant running weather too. The conflict I’m facing is that the weather makes me want to be running at my peak but I’m dealing with a body that is accustomed to taking it easy in the winter months. 

This is why patience is needed. I ran the Yuma Territorial half marathon at the end of January and did quite well finishing in 1:38 with very little training (I was able to snag 2nd place in my age group too!). This inspired me to keep pushing my limits and jump into a 50K in mid February. Of course, my body had a different plan. I could have pushed on and went to the 50K race and "struggle-fested" my way through it but instead I sided with patience and took an easy weekend of hiking instead. I had also caught a slight cold prior to the 50K so I didn’t really get in a long run at all. My longest run would have been that flat road half marathon which would have been poor metrics to judge my capability on a rugged, hilly, and technical 50K course that is the Black Canyon Ultra.

I’ve made due here in Yuma and I have been sticking to running the many canal trails that vein their way from the Colorado River through the many agricultural fields here in town. The trails along the canals are mostly dirt, small rocks, and loose sand. Sometimes when the wind picks up a small dirt devil that smacks you in the face and you better close your mouth or you’ll be crunching sand with your back molars even after a rinse of water. And as for when to run, you’d want to get done by noon at the latest since there is almost no shade. There is temporary reprieve as some large bales of hay sit next to a farm field that can provide shade about 4 miles into my run, but other than that your best bet is to find an electric pole or keep moving. 

As for my weekly run up Telegraph Pass, this run is always pleasant. There is a group that I’ve been running with called the Yuma Desert Runners and we always seem to enjoy our run. I never wear a watch (actually I only wear a watch during races to make sure I'm eating regularly) and simply go with how I’m feeling that day.  The first mile is pretty technical but it’s where you can run fast. The next mile is pretty much all up-hill. It’s quite steep as you gain just under 900 feet in a short distance but the view from up top is hard to beat in Yuma. On the way down it can get a bit harry if you have a fear of heights as the trail has drop-offs near the edge that would definitely leave a mark on you, if you somehow managed to survive the fall. But after making it back to the first section I love finding my grove and blasting through the rocky sections. I can almost close my eyes when I’m in my grove and let my feet do the guiding. Just feeling my way through it and nimbly making my way back to the trailhead would be satisfying enough but I’m also greeted with a spectacular sunset that spans the entire horizon just as I finish my run. The perks of the desert are many, you just need to know where to find them.

As I’m preparing for the hot summer that will have me running at 4am to avoid the 120 degree heat, I am patient because I know that when my body is ready it will let me know. For now, I’m okay running easy and by feel. There are plenty of trails to discover and when I run them they will share their wisdom in due time. I’m content exploring more of Yuma and know that each place is special because it’s not always about where you are, it’s about what you make of where you are. Also being with cool people helps too. And like my friend Chaz who I met down here recently told me, “If you’re a miserable person, you’ll be miserable everywhere you go.”

 

 

2014 ends, 2015 begins

The past few days I have smiled big smiles while recalling my accomplishments throughout the last year. I remember going into 2014 with high hopes of accomplishing more than I had in 2013. I had done so much in 2013 that I couldn’t fathom accomplishing more in another year that would trump it. 

I love being wrong. 2014 was absolutely greater than 2013. I didn’t race much this last year but instead had amazing runs in amazing places. I ran through polar vortexes, canyons, forests, alongside rivers and lakes, and even up and down mountains. I ran with friends, family, and even did some dog running. Most of the days I ran solo but never without thoughts of loved ones to keep me company. I also managed to finish my college degree and enter the real world once again. But most importantly of all, I fell in love with the sweetest girl I know. It is because of her that I now have the opportunity to run in the southwest exploring deserts, mountains, and the west coast. And best of all, we get to share these moments together. 

I have wanted to sit down and write a few more of these blog posts since my last one in July. I’m sorry if you were looking for any new posts and didn't find any. Don't worry, you didn't miss one. I actually haven’t had the chance to write anything in a while. Life just got tremendously busy for me the last 5 months of the year. Now that I have settled down in Yuma, Arizona I plan on sharing more of my running tales with you devoted readers. In the coming weeks I’ll finish up my race recap from The Arkansas Traveler 100 (spoiler: DNF) and also a post about returning to the flat lands of Illinois after my big summer in Colorado. Aside from that, you can expect my usual sage advice that I find along the trails.

I truly experienced another fulfilling year of being alive. I hope that I can inspire a few adventures with unique memories for yourself and your loved ones. These moments that fill us with life and happiness are meant to be enjoyed. I will seek out more of them this next year and I ask that you try to as well. And so that leads me to thoughts about this next year of 2015. Will I be comparing it to 2014 or other previous years? I’m hoping I don’t have to. I want to simply enjoy the moments I have day by day and continue to do what I love, running far. 

“We must give our children the freedom to test themselves, the faith to chase their dreams and enough trust to let them go.” –Marguerite Kelly

I want to thank my parents and my family for their tremendous support this past year. I truly could not have done so many amazing things this last year without your love and kindness. Thank you.

 

My good friend, the Colorado River

Moab, Arches, & Monuments

The open night sky before me stretches from horizon to horizon. The stars sprinkled across the darkness give the landscape some focus. It’s comforting seeing a familiar pattern to help orient oneself on our tiny planet. As I laid on my back contemplating the cosmos I felt at peace. Complete serenity encapsulated my thoughts while I rested on some petrified sand dunes. These sandstone hills rise slightly higher than the sandy campgrounds located in Sand Flats Recreation Area. Once above on these “slickrocks” the vista reveals the canyons as well as the glow of lights from the famous town of Moab.

The "slickrocks"

My friend Zak and I arrived to Moab ready for adventure. We stopped in Arches National Park and immediately went to the visitor’s center to pick up our permit for access into the Fiery Furnace. We had done some research prior to our visit and decided from looking at aerial photos that the pattern of fins known as the Fiery Furnace was our destination. The Park mandates each visitor to the Fiery Furnace either go on a guided tour with a Field Ranger or obtain a permit by watching an informal video of the sensitive nature within that location (basically don’t walk on soils, stay on rock or washes). Zak and I opted for the permit. We impressed the Ranger giving us our permit when we mentioned we are aware about the sensitivity of cryptobiotic soil and our background with environmental sciences. The Ranger then asked for our help if we knew of any methods to protect these sensitive soils. We told her we would work on it and get back to her.

Cyrptobiotic Soil

As we walked to the top of the slickrock our vision was limited to the haze coming from Moab’s city lights. The night sky illuminated only with its stars and the moon was already set for the evening. It became a trial of relying on our other senses to traverse the steep gradient of this sandstone. My feet were adept at providing feedback to prepare my next step. At one point I closed my ears and listened to Zak’s feet shuffling to sense which direction to follow. Each step was tentative at first but gradually I became more comfortable as my body dictated my balance and pace. 

The next stop once we had our permit in hand was to Delicate Arch. It was almost sundown and we decided to catch the view from one of the more picturesque arches. I had immediate satisfaction once we arrived to the trailhead. I took off running while Zak opted for a more leisurely stroll. The heat was familiar to me and reminded me of my former days of being deployed where the desert was my everyday surrounding. The dryness was similar but the expansive rock faces and monuments were other worldly to me. As I pushed my pace I wanted to see more and more. I was running fast and taking it all in. When I arrived to Delicate Arch I collapsed in front of it and stared straight up. I caught my breath and heard Zak calling me from the outer rim of the viewing area. I headed toward him and kept looking back at the Arch confirming its majesty.  

 

Looking up to Delicate Arch

The west view from Delicate Arch

While laying on the slickrock I noticed how much grit the sandstone actually had. This place is popular for bicyclists since the rock offers tremendous grip. Zak had told me before that I would love running here since I would get great traction and he was 100% right. The night air was cool and as we stared at the cosmos our conversation was occasionally interrupted by a shooting star. The largest of the night occurred while I was in the middle of a story and I yelled “Wow! Did you see that!?” to which Zak replied he had just missed it by closing his eyes for a minute. I found it so comfortable up here that I wound up staying on this rock and sleeping with the stars over my head.

The following morning we fastpacked through The Devil’s Garden while eagerly anticipating the Fiery Furnace. We saw the arches and even climbed a few boulders to get a better view. This hike took us longer than expected but we finally made it to the Furnace and the adventure was exactly what we hoped for. The passages among the carved rock were narrow and perfect for climbing around. We kept thinking that we should have started here earlier since we could spend all day perfectly content winding around these towering sandstone walls. We came across some waterholes and took the time to use teamwork to remove some litter another visitor must have left behind. Zak grabbed my left hand while I splayed out and reached far with my right hand to pick the trash out from the waterhole. Our mission was accomplished and we left feeling satisfied having helped preserve the natural balance of this special place. The heat was upon us and we had to leave since the cool air was rapidly leaving and the radiating heat these rocks collect was beginning to release itself. We both agreed that a return to this location was entirely necessary in the future. 

Skull Arch located in the Fiery Furnace

Avoiding the cryptobiotic soil

With the midday heat in full effect we drove straight to the Colorado River. We pulled over into a recreation area and bushwhacked our way to the river. Our shoes and shirts came off as we plowed into the muddy riverbed. The force and flow of this river was immense. On the count of three Zak and I dunked our heads into the water and I immediately felt the pull of the river. The water was opaque from the sediment coming from all the mountains and canyons upstream. More importantly it was refreshingly cool and brought our body temperature down to a comfortable degree. 

Colorado River

With the sun hanging at our backs we left Moab and began the trip back to Colorado. We would end up camping outside of The Colorado National Monument for the night. It was equally enchanting and made me appreciate this state even more. I got to explore some of the canyons here the next day and run through them contently. All this exploring and running was fulfilling to my body and mind. My legs would be sore at night but come morning they were ready for some more action. At night my eyes would get their fill from the vistas and my mind would relax with the soothing calmness of nature in the dark. And when the sun rises my eyes open and see the brilliant gleams of orange. I know another day has arrived and I’m lucky enough to be alive to enjoy it.

 

Conducting some "water quality" testing